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	<title>Comments on: It&#8217;s the lens that matters most</title>
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	<link>http://www.booleansplit.com/?p=310</link>
	<description>photos, tips, tricks, and thoughts from an avid amateur photographer</description>
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		<title>By: Robert</title>
		<link>http://www.booleansplit.com/?p=310&#038;cpage=1#comment-128</link>
		<dc:creator>Robert</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Feb 2009 19:58:03 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>@robin- Thanks for your comments! The reason why I mention equivalent lens focal lengths for crop sensor cameras is because I feel that it is important to maintain an understanding of how a lens behaves on a given camera body. So many people today are shooting fast 50mm lenses on their crop sensor DSLRs because they have been led to believe that &quot;50mm&quot; is the ideal focal length. Meanwhile, what they are really getting is more of a short telephoto FoV and that classic 50mm look is being lost. Also, one can mount up a Canon 17-40 f/4L to either a FF sensor or crop sensor body and get very different results.

I agree that improper use of an ultra wide zoom can become distracting and gimmicky. Personally I like to use them in situations where either the distortion is part of the creative effect or when shooting a panorama is not feasible. Some of my best shots with my Sigma 10-20 were of groups of kids tearing into birthday cake at parties and the like. For me, the FoV of an ultra wide angle lens opens up creative possibilities in much the same manner a telephoto lens does (just in a different direction).

Whatever the situation your points are valid and appreciated.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@robin- Thanks for your comments! The reason why I mention equivalent lens focal lengths for crop sensor cameras is because I feel that it is important to maintain an understanding of how a lens behaves on a given camera body. So many people today are shooting fast 50mm lenses on their crop sensor DSLRs because they have been led to believe that &#8220;50mm&#8221; is the ideal focal length. Meanwhile, what they are really getting is more of a short telephoto FoV and that classic 50mm look is being lost. Also, one can mount up a Canon 17-40 f/4L to either a FF sensor or crop sensor body and get very different results.</p>
<p>I agree that improper use of an ultra wide zoom can become distracting and gimmicky. Personally I like to use them in situations where either the distortion is part of the creative effect or when shooting a panorama is not feasible. Some of my best shots with my Sigma 10-20 were of groups of kids tearing into birthday cake at parties and the like. For me, the FoV of an ultra wide angle lens opens up creative possibilities in much the same manner a telephoto lens does (just in a different direction).</p>
<p>Whatever the situation your points are valid and appreciated.</p>
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		<title>By: robin</title>
		<link>http://www.booleansplit.com/?p=310&#038;cpage=1#comment-126</link>
		<dc:creator>robin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Feb 2009 12:21:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.booleansplit.com/?p=310#comment-126</guid>
		<description>Excellent summary and advice. Two comments: 

1. You should always refer to the actual lens focal length (as you do). Focal length does not change depending on the camera, even if FOV does. It just gets confusing (and is technically incorrect) to say a 50mm lens is actually 75mm on a cropped sensor camera.

2. &quot;Consider an ultra wide angle zoom.&quot; I am not sold on this range. Once you get past 24mm the distorted field limits possibilities to &quot;clever&quot; and &quot;gimmick&quot; shots far too much, IMO. Yes, I know these effects can be appealing, but the tricks get old fast. If one needs to capture a wider field of view, panorama software is where it&#039;s at. Use a 28mm prime, shoot several shots horizontally and avoid perspective distortion. You&#039;ll likely have better IQ as well.

Thanks again for these articles, which I am sure are especially helpful to beginners.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Excellent summary and advice. Two comments: </p>
<p>1. You should always refer to the actual lens focal length (as you do). Focal length does not change depending on the camera, even if FOV does. It just gets confusing (and is technically incorrect) to say a 50mm lens is actually 75mm on a cropped sensor camera.</p>
<p>2. &#8220;Consider an ultra wide angle zoom.&#8221; I am not sold on this range. Once you get past 24mm the distorted field limits possibilities to &#8220;clever&#8221; and &#8220;gimmick&#8221; shots far too much, IMO. Yes, I know these effects can be appealing, but the tricks get old fast. If one needs to capture a wider field of view, panorama software is where it&#8217;s at. Use a 28mm prime, shoot several shots horizontally and avoid perspective distortion. You&#8217;ll likely have better IQ as well.</p>
<p>Thanks again for these articles, which I am sure are especially helpful to beginners.</p>
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		<title>By: Mulsanne</title>
		<link>http://www.booleansplit.com/?p=310&#038;cpage=1#comment-77</link>
		<dc:creator>Mulsanne</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:15:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.booleansplit.com/?p=310#comment-77</guid>
		<description>That&#039;s a nice list. I can personally recommend the 17-40 f/4 and the 70-200 f/2.8 IS. If you need to save some money, then non-IS version of the 70-200 is very nice and a LOT lighter, so much so I wonder if the image stabilizer is really needed.

I would defer to the 300mm f/2.8 over the 400 though. It is lighter and easier to carry and is the sharpest telephoto Canon makes. (The Nikon 300 /2.8 is also wicked sharp) I would also add a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/220456-USA/Canon_6845A004AA_1_4x_EF_Extender_II.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1.4x tele-convter&lt;/a&gt; to this list. This makes the 300 a 420mm f/4. You can also use it with the 70-200 /2.8. You do loose on stop of aperture and a little sharpness but both lenses are so sharp to start with that it makes it worth while. For under $300 it&#039;s like getting another lens in the bag minus the extra weight and space.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That&#8217;s a nice list. I can personally recommend the 17-40 f/4 and the 70-200 f/2.8 IS. If you need to save some money, then non-IS version of the 70-200 is very nice and a LOT lighter, so much so I wonder if the image stabilizer is really needed.</p>
<p>I would defer to the 300mm f/2.8 over the 400 though. It is lighter and easier to carry and is the sharpest telephoto Canon makes. (The Nikon 300 /2.8 is also wicked sharp) I would also add a <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/220456-USA/Canon_6845A004AA_1_4x_EF_Extender_II.html" rel="nofollow">1.4x tele-convter</a> to this list. This makes the 300 a 420mm f/4. You can also use it with the 70-200 /2.8. You do loose on stop of aperture and a little sharpness but both lenses are so sharp to start with that it makes it worth while. For under $300 it&#8217;s like getting another lens in the bag minus the extra weight and space.</p>
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